Toujours Pret Dirty Dozen - Militado losing the Battle?

I have always appreciated field watches for their plain, highly legible dials and utilitarian design aesthetic. Toujours Prêt is a relatively new name in the affordable watch space. Their name stems from a French military slogan, which is an interesting choice given that their best-selling watch is a homage to the "Dirty Dozen"—a design originally commissioned by the British Department of Defence. Historical naming quirks aside, the timepiece itself is quite compelling.

The Case

The 39mm bead-blasted stainless steel case offers a lovely matte finish that resists wear better than similarly finished titanium. The overall execution is excellent for the price point, though the inner edges of the lugs are a bit sharp and could use some softening. The watch features a screw-down case back and a screw-down crown. While the case back is a great choice, the screw-down crown presents some functional challenges given the movement used.

The Movement

The watch is powered by a Chinese SZ (Senzhong) mechanical movement, which the brand labels as the Caliber TPM-1. It operates at 21,600 vibrations per hour, features a shock-protected balance, and provides a 40-hour power reserve. While the brand states it is regulated, it appears to be a standard, durable SZ movement well-suited for a budget field watch. My primary critique is the pairing of a screw-down crown with a manual-wind movement that lacks a clutch. If you accidentally max-wind the watch, you cannot screw the crown back in until the mainspring winds down slightly. Attempting to force it can break the movement so you need to leave the watch alone for about an hour before securing the crown.

The Crystal

The watch utilizes a domed acrylic crystal, which the brand selects for WWII historical accuracy. Historical accuracy or price point?  You decide.  The acrylic used is high quality, offering excellent clarity and minimal distortion across the dome.The Dial

The dial is a standout feature. The sand color variant has a subtle shimmer that resembles pale gold, making it highly striking. The Arabic numerals, cathedral hands, and sub-seconds dial at 6 o'clock add a sophisticated, vintage-inspired touch to the high-legibility sterile military design.

The Strap

The watch includes a robust, well-made black nylon NATO strap. I personally swapped it out for a finer-woven hunter green and golden beige NATO strap to better complement the sand dial, though the stock option remains highly durable.

Conclusion

Despite the minor issue I have with the crown mechanism, the build quality, bead-blasted case, and beautiful dial make it an exceptional value.

Maybe I just get carried away with winding things up.    For example, this is the best Dirty Dozen homage under $60.  Better than Militado or Berny.    You have now been wound up. Let loose in the comments.  

Key Specs: 

• Design: Dirty Dozen military watch homage 

• Case: 39mm bead-blasted stainless steel 

• Movement: Hand-wound mechanical (SZ / Caliber TPM-1), 21,600 vph, 40-hour power reserve 

• Features: Sub-seconds dial at 6 o’clock

• Shock-protected balance 

• Crystal: Domed acrylic 

• Case Hardware: Screw-down crown and screw-down case back

• Strap: Durable nylon field strap